Nepal Blog
October 1, 2023
Exploring Kathmandu: A Day of Discovery and Cultural Insights
Our journey through Nepal has officially begun, and what an incredible day it has been! We started our day with a hearty breakfast, setting the tone for a day filled with exploration and cultural immersion. As we embarked on our guided tour, we quickly learned that we had arrived during a special season - the season of ornithology, when Siberian birds migrate to Nepal. What a fascinating welcome to this vibrant country!
Our Insightful Guide, Shiva
A big part of our day’s success was thanks to our knowledgeable guide, Shiva. He not only guided us through Nepal’s bustling streets but also shared invaluable insights about the coun- try’s religious and architectural diversity. Nepal is a land where Hinduism and Buddhism harmo- niously coexist, with approximately 80% of the population practicing Hinduism and around 17% adhering to Buddhism. This unique blend of faiths is beautifully reflected in the architecture, featuring both pagoda-style and dome-shaped structures.
The Spiritual Journey Begins
Our first stop on this cultural voyage was the mesmerizing Swayambhunath Temple, also known as the "Monkey Temple." Here, both Buddhism and Hinduism are celebrated side by side, creat- ing a truly harmonious atmosphere. As we explored the temple’s grounds, we were welcomed by curious monkeys and friendly stray dogs.
During our visit, we had the privilege of meeting an expert who has been featured on National Geographic twice. His insights into the temple and Nepal’s history were truly enlightening. We learned about the intricate Buddhist paintings adorning the temple and the inspiring story of the art school that originated with the goal of employing female artists. Today, this school boasts over 800 students, with a remarkable 80 % of them being women.
A Glimpse of Hindu Tradition
Our next destination was Pashupatinath Temple, one of the oldest Hindu temples in Nepal. While we, as non-practicing Hindus, couldn’t enter the temple, we had the opportunity to explore its sacred grounds. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the god of destruction. It’s also a place where open cremations take place, though not by the family; instead, it’s carried out by the temple’s designated individuals.
The Grandeur of Boudhanath Stupa
Our final stop of the day was the awe-inspiring Boudhanath Stupa, the largest stupa in the world. It once held the title of the tallest stupa until a recent one was built in Myanmar. As we marveled at its grandeur, we couldn’t help but be captivated by the surrounding shops and the stunning views.
Preparation for the Trek Ahead
After a day filled with cultural immersion and spiritual exploration, we returned to our hotel to meet with Peak Promotion, the mountaineering agency that will accompany us on our trek. We received our schedule and had a comprehensive overview of the entire journey, including our early morning departure time - a bright and early 1:30 am!
Now, the real adventure begins as we prepare for our journey into the Himalayas. With bags to pack and a world of experiences awaiting us, we can’t help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation. Stay tuned for more updates, as our trekking adventure through Montana State University promises to be an unforgettable experience filled with learning, discovery, and unforgettable moments.
October 2, 2023
From Buses to Airports, Straight to the Trails - Adventure Unfolds, Starting in Lukla.
The anticipation was palpable as the clock struck 1 am, and the spirited hustle and bustle of Montana State University’s MSSE trekkers reverberated through the air. We found ourselves gathering around two sturdy buses, the very vessels that would soon propel us on the next leg of our extraordinary journey. Our destination? The airport, where the gateway to the Himalayas awaited. This was the moment we had all been waiting for, the culmination of months of preparation, planning, and shared excitement.
As we climbed aboard those buses in the dead of night, the winding roads ahead remained cloaked in darkness, a mysterious shroud that masked the beauty and challenges that lay in store for us. The adventure had already begun, even before we set foot on the hallowed trails of the Himalayas. With each twist and turn of the road, our sense of anticipation grew, mingling with the thrill of the unknown.
In the quiet hours of that night, amidst the hum of the engine and the camaraderie of fellow trekkers, we were united by a common thread – the unwavering spirit of adventure. It was a spirit that had brought us together from various corners of the world, a spirit that thrived on the promise of exploration and discovery. As the bus rolled on through the darkness, little did we know that this nighttime journey would become a tale to remember, filled with laughter, camaraderie, and unexpected surprises.
Arriving in Lukla was a moment of transition, a passage from the familiar to the unknown. Here, Amber’s words resonated with all of us, summing up our bus experience with a touch of humor, "The bus ride was worse than the flight." Jonathan, with a shared sense of amusement, cheekily confirmed that he could quite literally taste the remnants of his last night’s dinner during the bus ride – a testament to the winding roads and the delightful quirks of our journey.
Our adventure was only just beginning, and as we stepped onto the tarmac of Lukla’s airport, we were poised on the threshold of a new chapter in our expedition. The thrill of the bus ride was now a treasured memory, and the promise of the Himalayan trails beckoned with the allure of adventure and exploration. Stay tuned as we delve deeper into our trekking adventure, with Lukla marking the starting point of an incredible journey that promises to be filled with awe- inspiring moments and unforgettable experiences.
A Day of Discovery and Giving Back: Visiting a Local School
Our journey through Nepal has already taken us to fascinating places, and one of our first stops was a local school close to Lukla. As we trekked down to the school grounds, we were welcomed by the headmaster, teachers, and a group of curious students, all proudly dressed in their uniforms and standing at attention.
While some of the students were a bit shy, many were eager to share their stories and ask us questions. During our visit, we had the privilege of interacting with students from various grades, including the 2nd, 10th, and 12th. After our engaging session, we explored the school’s science and computer labs, where curiosity and learning thrived.
As a token of appreciation and a way to engage these young minds with the wonders of science, we gifted the students with socks, pencils, and tops – perfect tools for exploring scientific phenomena. After all, we are science teachers, and sparking curiosity is what we do best!
Trekking on Empty: The Journey Continues
After a day that began at 1 am and was filled with excitement and exploration, we found ourselves back on the trail, trekking to our next destination. Halfway through our five-hour trek, we paused at a tea house for a well-deserved lunch. Fries, fried rice, noodles, and vegetables filled our plates, and we were joined by an unexpected guest – Champ the bobcat. To warm our spirits, we sipped on honey, lemon, and ginger tea, a delightful treat.
As we savored our meal, Annie shared a profound quote that resonated with all of us, "Things become clear when it is too late." With this wisdom in mind, we continued our trek along a picturesque river, crossed suspension bridges that offered breathtaking views, passed through quiet villages – well, except for the one with the lively pub playing Irish music, as we say "pub is life" a reminder that life’s joys are universal.
As we trekked, we also took the time to get to know each other better. John encouraged us to share interesting facts about ourselves, and it became a delightful game to match the facts with their owners. Upon arriving at our destination, we found ourselves surrounded by the soothing sounds of a beautiful waterfall, and we bunked up with our designated roommates, ready for the adventures that lie ahead.
Stay tuned as our journey unfolds, promises are fulfilled, and moments of discovery continue to enrich our experience. Nepal has already shown us its beauty and charm, and we can’t wait to explore further and share it all with you.
October 3, 2023
A Day of Exploration and Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar
Our journey through Nepal continues to be an extraordinary adventure filled with surprises, learning, and unforgettable encounters. As we began our day in Namche Bazaar, we couldn’t help but reflect on our night’s sleep. The serenades of barking dogs echoed through the night, a unique and somewhat disruptive experience that added to the tapestry of our memories. But, sleep disturbances aside, we gathered for breakfast, ready to embark on another day of exploration.
Trekking to Khumjung: A Journey of Acclimatization
To acclimatize properly to the high altitudes, we embarked on a trek that would take us up high and back down in the same day. This process encourages the production of more red blood cells, essential for adapting to the thin air of the Himalayas. Our destination was Khumjung, a village that beckoned us with the promise of tea and stunning vistas.
As we trekked through the rain, our spirits remained undampened by the weather. The journey was as much about the experience as the destination, and along the way, we encountered carved tablets whose origins are so ancient that their craft has been lost to time. The rain added a mystical quality to our surroundings, shrouding the landscape in a sense of mystery.
The Hillary School: A Legacy of Education
Our arrival in Khumjung marked a pivotal moment as we stepped into the Hillary School, a tes- tament to the enduring legacy of Sir Edmund Hillary. This remarkable man, the first to summit Mount Everest, developed a deep love for Nepal, leading him to contribute significantly to the country’s educational infrastructure, including the building of schools and even the airport. It’s a legacy worth exploring, and we recommend looking it up for a truly inspiring tale.
At the Hillary School, we were warmly greeted by the school’s principal, Ndrai. The institution boasts a dedicated team of government-sponsored teachers who are employed full-time. With over 200 students ranging in age from 4 to 18, the school plays a pivotal role in shaping young minds. After graduation, students often pursue higher education in Kathmandu or enter the world of tourism.
To support these ambitious students, the school offers 10-12 scholarship programs, ensuring that no dream is out of reach. Some students live on campus in the hostel from the age of 10, fostering an environment of learning and camaraderie.
Ndrai guided us through the school, showcasing the computer lab and library, where our mas- cot, Champ, couldn’t resist enjoying a good book. We continued our journey into the science lab, where John donated a microscope from MSU, and Kim shared a picture depicting her stu- dents raising funds for the school’s greenhouse.
Meeting the students was a heartwarming experience. They were diligently studying for their upcoming exams, and we brought spinning tops to demonstrate the phenomenon of wind tun- nels. Conversations flowed, bonds were forged, and it was a truly emotional adventure.
Our visit to the school concluded with a trip to the museum on the school grounds, where we delved deeper into the rich history of the region and its educational institutions.
Khumjung Gompa: A Glimpse into Mystical Traditions
Our journey continued as we made our way to Khumjung Gompa, a revered monastery known for a rather unique relic – a real-life yeti skull. Here, we had the opportunity to immerse our- selves in the mystical traditions of the Himalayas, gaining insights into the spiritual practices that have shaped this region for centuries.
Recycling and Upcycling: The Saga of Sagarmatha
Our day took an eco-conscious turn as we visited Sagarmatha, an upcycling and recycling plant. Tommy, our guide, showed us around and revealed the remarkable work that this organization does. Notably, Tommy was instrumental in starting the tour company we are partnering with, Peak Promotion.
Sagarmatha engages in a range of projects aimed at environmental preservation. Tourists are encouraged to bring waste back with them, participate in waste collection and sorting, and even collaborate with artists to create art from recycled materials. In a monumental effort, they brought down 9 tons of waste from Everest during their first clean-up expedition.
If you’re curious to learn more about this incredible NGO, we invite you to explore their website, Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube channel. Their commitment to preserving Nepal’s natural beauty is truly inspiring.
A Night of Reflection and Preparation
Our day concluded back at our cozy teahouse in Namche Bazaar, where we ordered dinner and indulged in some last-minute shopping for necessities. After dinner, we allowed ourselves the luxury of rest and relaxation, preparing for the adventures that await us in the days to come.
Our journey through Nepal is a tapestry of experiences, each day unveiling new layers of beauty, culture, and camaraderie. Stay tuned for more stories from the heart of the Himalayas as we continue to explore, learn, and share the magic of this enchanting land.
October 4, 2023
Embracing Culture and the Trek to Namche: A Day of Surprises
Our adventure through Nepal continues to unfold with each passing day, and it’s safe to say that we’ve been greeted with a delightful array of surprises and experiences. Last night, our evening concluded with a meeting that left us all captivated. We had the pleasure of meeting a distinguished researcher named Mahesh Kumar Karki, a published author who is currently working on a book that promises to provide fascinating insights into the diverse cultures of Nepal.
Mahesh Kumar Karki is a firm believer in the power of i teresting facts, and h e s hared his philosophy with us. He’s on a mission to introduce readers to the rich tapestry of cultures that call the Nepali valley home. Our discussion with him centered around the Sherpa culture and lifestyle. He also shed light on the meaning behind the painted rocks adorned with scripture that we’ve encountered on our journey. These rocks serve as places of meditation, and they signify the sacredness of the mountains that surround us.
One crucial takeaway from our conversation was the significance of language in Nepal. I n a country with a multitude of languages, it’s essential for everyone to learn the local language, fostering communication and connection. Mahesh Kumar Karki and his family live 100 kilo- meters away from our current location, which for locals, constitutes a two-day walk. To end our unforgettable evening, he graciously signed copies of his book for each of us, leaving us inspired and eager to dive deeper into the cultural mosaic of Nepal.
From Tok Tok to Namche: Trekking with Energy and Enthusiasm
Following a night of restorative sleep, we awoke with renewed energy and excitement for the adventures that awaited us. Our day began with a hearty breakfast that fueled our spirits, and from there, we transitioned seamlessly to our next hiking expedition. The trail that stretched before us was narrow, winding, and filled with fellow trekkers, donkeys, cows, and resilient porters who carry the weight of this enchanting region on their shoulders.
After about an hour and a half of hiking, we reached our first checkpoint, a pivotal moment where our bags underwent meticulous scrutiny. The focus here was on ensuring that no drones made their way into the fragile mountain ecosystem. Our journey continued, and we soon found ourselves at Panorama Lodge for a well-deserved lunch break.
During our meal, conversations flowed freely among participants, and Stephanie and Holly, in particular, voiced their appreciation for the alternative route we had taken. It felt like a "create your own adventure" as we trekked alongside the river, navigating the muddy terrain with enthusiasm. The journey was as much about the experience as it was about the destination.
Arriving in Namche Bazaar: A Triumph of Strength
As we resumed our trek after lunch, the trail beckoned us upward, a challenge that we met with unwavering determination. The incline and ridge between two mountains tested our mettle, and while we had anticipated a six-hour journey, our resilience surprised us all as we reached our destination faster than expected.
Namche Bazaar, a picturesque village cradled amidst the majestic Himalayan peaks, welcomed us with open arms. Settling into our accommodations, we couldn’t help but marvel at the breathtaking views that surrounded us. But our thirst for exploration was far from quenched.
Connecting with Young Minds at Shree Himalayas Basic School
Our day wasn’t over yet. Just 30 minutes from Namche, a group of MSSE trekkers made their way to the Shree Himmilla Basic School. Here, we had the privilege of interacting with eager 7th graders who were deep into their social studies curriculum. With smiles on their faces, they shared glimpses of their lives, their favorite subjects (math and science, of course), and their journey into the fascinating world of climate change. Their exploration of science had begun as early as grade 4.
The experience was nothing short of heartwarming, and it reminded us of the universal language of curiosity and learning that binds us all, regardless of borders or backgrounds.
A Glimpse into Namche’s Past and Future: Insights from Pemba
Back in Namche, our group reconvened for dinner and a special guest speaker – Pemba, a name that means "born on a Saturday." Pemba was not just a speaker; he was a living embodiment of Namche’s history and culture. Born and raised in this charming village, he owns the teahouse where we gathered, a teahouse that has been a part of the fabric of Namche for generations.
Pemba regaled us with stories that spanned centuries, recounting the history of Namche from its origins in eastern Tibet to its transformation into the vibrant village we see today. Until 1850, Namche was primarily an agricultural community, but the advent of taxation ushered in a new era, allowing locals to trade with Tibet. The year 1952 marked a turning point when Nepal opened its doors to visitors. By the 1990s, the tourism boom had begun, and today, nearly 60,000 people visit Namche annually. With a new road to Lukla under construction, the influx of tourists is expected to rise even further.
As the night drew to a close, we couldn’t help but reflect on the rich tapestry of history that makes up Namche’s identity. Our day tomorrow will focus on acclimatization, ensuring that we are well-prepared for the high altitudes that lie ahead. With each passing day, our journey through Nepal promises to be an exhilarating exploration of culture, nature, and camaraderie. Stay tuned for more adventures, discoveries, and the magic of the Himalayas!
October 5, 2023
Leaving Namche: Laughs, Views, and Shirt Rescues
The sun greeted us with its warm embrace as we peered out early in the morning. The promising sight of clear skies and a rain-free day filled us with joy. As we embarked on our trek, the beauty of the Himalayas stretched out before us, leaving us in awe. Steph, capturing the essence of the moment, exclaimed, "It’s crazy to be higher than helicopters!"
The Shirt Savior: A Nepalese Tale
Mary, one of our intrepid trekkers, found herself feeling unexpectedly warm during our journey. The Nepalese weather was proving to be hotter than anticipated. As we made our first stop and browsed the local shops, Mary embarked on a mission to find a lighter shirt to keep cool. After a humorous encounter involving a dog fight (no, really), she approached one of the shopkeepers and asked for a lighter shirt. In a heartwarming gesture, the woman disappeared into her own closet and insisted that Mary take one for free. Grateful and somewhat bewildered, Mary left some money as a token of her appreciation and found herself at the perfect temperature for the rest of the trek.
Mong La: Where Lunch Comes with a View
Our lunch stop at Mong La left us speechless as we gazed upon the incredible vistas surrounding us. It was unanimously declared as the most stunning place we had ever had the privilege of having lunch. Tom was so enamored by the experience that he decided to stash some tater bites in his pocket, vowing to munch on them all the way to our next destination.
The Journey to Dole: Waterfalls and Cricket
Our trek continued, taking us on a four-hour adventure to reach Dole. Along the trail, we ascended and descended in altitude, crossing valleys and streams, all while being serenaded by cascading waterfalls. Upon our arrival at the Yetti resort, we were delighted to find locals engaged in a game of cricket. Katelyn and Tom even got a taste of the sport before we settled down for some tea and an enlightening geology session with Vince.
Vince Rocks: Unveiling the Geology of Everest
Vince, our geology enthusiast, kicked off his presentation with a flurry of dad jokes that had us chuckling. As we delved deeper into the subject, we were treated to fascinating insights. Did you know that the first map by National Geographic featuring Everest was produced in 1933? There are 14 mountains higher than 8000 meters, and they all owe their existence to thrust faults. The Indian plate’s rapid movement caused it to collide with the Eurasian plate, giving birth to the Himalayas. The mountains continue to rise at a rate of approximately 10mm per year, although weathering and erosion could potentially slow them down.
The geological makeup of the region includes dolomite, which has higher magnesium con- tent than limestone. Yellow-tan marble, known as the "golden ring," is found around Everest. Feldspar, the white rocks in the region, are common in the mountains. Astonishingly, there are even fossils of sea life to be found on Everest!
The "hardcore" section of the region features igneous and metamorphic rocks, including granite and dark pokadots called peelight. Overlapping sedimentary rocks resemble shingles atop the mountains, and blunt, steep slopes create a striking landscape.
Vince also touched on the history of measuring Everest’s height, from the use of theodolites to more modern methods.
He concluded with a discussion on climate change, emphasizing that about 20 years ago, it was scarcely acknowledged. In 2019, the first weather station was installed at over 6000 meters, revealing concerning trends of ice thinning, if not outright melting. The region also boasts ice stupas, which provide an astonishing 10 million liters of water to the lands each year.
End of the Day and Bonus Information
After an enriching seminar with Vince, we savored a well-deserved dinner and settled in for a restful night’s sleep. But before we conclude this post, we have exciting news to share – Amber was featured in an article by the Great Falls Public Schools Foundation. You can read all about it by following this link:[13] [Immersive Professional Learning Grant Provides Educational Experience of a Lifetime
Stay tuned for more adventures, laughs, and insights from the heart of the Himalayas as we continue our journey through Nepal!
October 6, 2023
Leaving Dole: Ascending, Learning, and the Chill Sets In
As the first light of day broke over the horizon, we awoke to a spectacular sight from our cozy haven at the Yetti Inn in Dole. But what really caught our attention were the helicopters zipping in and out for drop-offs and pickups before and after breakfast. An exhilarating sight, indeed!
Trekking Higher, Trekking Shorter
As we began our trek for the day, we noticed a curious pattern – the higher we ventured, the shorter our treks became. It’s all part of the grand plan to help our bodies acclimatize to the increasing altitude. Trekking to our first stop, Lusa, took us just two hours, where we indulged in the most divine mango tea, a unanimous favorite among us.
From Lusa to Taehindle Lodge: A Flavorful Trek
Our trek continued to Taehindle Lodge, a mere hour away. After checking in, we savored some delightful tea and a hearty lunch before gearing up for a viewpoint hike. When we began the ascent, the viewpoint was enshrouded in mist, offering an otherworldly experience. While we couldn’t see everything clearly, the thrill of hiking through the mystical fog was an adventure in itself. We then made our way back to the lodge, eager for more learning!
Jonathan’s Seminar: Deciphering the Atmosphere
Jonathan took the stage to unravel the mysteries of how the atmosphere impacts our bodies, and he didn’t spare any Celsius degrees in the process!
His mission? To help us understand why we feel the way we do at these elevations. The atmosphere at higher altitudes undergoes changes in pressure and the available oxygen (O2). At sea level, there’s roughly 20 % oxygen. Astonishingly, this percentage remains consistent regardless of elevation. However, what changes is the boiling point of water due to vapor pressure. At sea level, water boils at 212°F (100°C), but here in the Himalayas, where the air pressure is lower, it boils at 184°F (84°C). On the summit of Gokyo, it’s even lower at 175°F (80°C), and on Everest, it’s a mere 150°F (66°C). These variations arise from the air pressure pushing down on us at different altitudes.
Two relationships change significantly at higher elevations – pressure and available O2. It’s the non-linearity of these changes that can pose challenges for climbers. Teahouses, for instance, are strategically placed to account for these factors. Even planes require longer runways for takeoff at higher altitudes due to these pressure differences. Additionally, there’s a maximum elevation cap for planes.
The pressure at sea level amounts to 15 pounds per square inch (psi). As we ascend, the partial pressure of oxygen (O2) decreases. At sea level, it’s around 3 psi, while on Everest, it’s as low as 1 psi.
Kim’s Dive into Altitude-Induced Pulmonary Edema
Kim took the reins to shed light on the effects of decreasing pressure on our bodies. One of these effects is pulmonary edema, which occurs due to constricted blood vessels that lead to leakage from the lungs. This leakage results from increased pressure on the walls of blood vessels. Normally, our blood maintains a pH of about 7.4, but in high-altitude environments, it tends to become more alkaline.
A Closer Look at Altitude Sickness
Here, let’s delve into the three types of altitude sickness:
- **Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): Symptoms include headache, fatigue, dizziness, and nausea.
- **High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)**: This severe condition is characterized by symp- toms such as confusion, stumbling, and incoherence.
- **Altitude Pulmonary Edema**: As explained by Kim, this condition leads to fluid accumulation in the lungs.
Hike High, Sleep Low: A Blood-Boosting Strategy
The mantra "hike high, sleep low" is the key to producing more red blood cells, enhancing our bodies’ oxygen-carrying capacity. This strategy promotes blood cell production, which translates to more oxygen being delivered to vital organs. It also involves the production of chemicals in hemoglobin to help release oxygen and make blood thicker. At very high altitudes, individuals may even require blood removal due to excessively thick blood.
Jonathan’s Personal Altitude Saga
Jonathan shared a personal anecdote about his battle with altitude sickness. On one expedition, he contracted food poisoning at 15,500 feet, which pushed his body to its limits. Altitude sickness felt like his brain was caught in a vice due to the mounting pressure. It was only after his fever broke three hours later that he started to return to normal. However, on the way down, he experienced High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), a condition that could only be treated by descending rapidly.
Dinner and Bundling Up: Facing the Cold
With the day’s lessons complete, we prepared ourselves for our coldest night yet. We gathered our provisions and bundled up tightly to fend off the plummeting temperatures. It’s only going to get colder from here, but we’re ready for whatever the Himalayas have in store for us!
Stay tuned for more tales of adventure, exploration, and altitude-induced insights as we journey further into the heart of the Himalayas!
October 7, 2023
Leaving for Gokyo: A Day of Sunny Adventures
Once again, we were greeted by the warm embrace of the sun as we opened our eyes, signaling the start of another thrilling day in the Himalayas. We kicked off our day with a hearty breakfast accompanied by the soothing sips of milk tea. However, today was no ordinary day; today was the day we embarked on our journey to Gokyo, and excitement was in the air!
Trail Signs and Lake Views: A Scenic Celebration
As we hit the trail, we couldn’t help but notice the signs that marked the path to Gokyo, and a sense of jubilation washed over us. The anticipation built with each step, and when we caught sight of the first lake, we couldn’t resist stopping to soak in the breathtaking scenery. With ice- capped peaks in the backdrop, the landscape looked surreal, like something out of a dream. The second lake further fueled our excitement, but it was the third lake that signaled our official arrival – Gokyo, we had arrived!
Gokyo and its MSU Connection
Our arrival in Gokyo was more than just a destination; it was a connection to our very own Montana State University. Gokyo holds a special place in the heart of MSU, with Mary Hubbard from our institution playing a pivotal role in a study here, supported by none other than National Geographic. This study delves deep into the fascinating history preserved in the mud of the Gokyo valley.
"The history is in the mud" - A National Geographic resource showcasing MSU’s involvement in the Gokyo valley. Watch here: History in the Mud
Acclimatization Hike: A Glacier Surprise
Following our tea and lunch break, it was time to acclimatize – hike high and sleep low, they say. Little did we know that this hike would hold a delightful surprise – a glacier! (For those seeking a quick glacier knowledge refresher, a glacier is a slow-moving, massive river of ice formed from the accumulation and compaction of snow over thousands of years.)
The glacier stretched as far as the eye could see, a stark reminder of the ever-changing land- scape. It was mind-boggling to realize that the very spot where we stood was once part of this immense ice flow. We snapped some incredible photos, celebrated our discovery, and began our descent as mist began to shroud the glacier and lake.
Dinner, Games, and National Geographic Dreams
Back at our cozy abode, some of our fellow trekkers introduced us to an array of entertaining games, from euchre to taco cat goat cheese pizza and Snurts. Others found solace in reading or unleashing their creative side through painting. As the day gave way to night, we had the privilege of listening to John share insights on how to join the National Geographic Fellowship, recounting his own adventure to Svalbard Island.
With departure time set at a brisk 4 AM, we all retired early, eagerly anticipating the next day’s adventure. Our early departure had a clear mission – to catch a glimpse of the mighty Everest. Stay tuned for more thrilling tales from our Himalayan escapade!
October 8, 2023
Summiting Gokyo Ri: Chasing the Sunrise over Everest
At a staggering 3:30 AM, our adventure began with the energetic bustle of trekkers gearing up for an ascent like no other. In the quiet pre-dawn hours, there was no coffee or boiled water to be found. The mission was clear – we needed to conquer Gokyo Ri before the morning clouds obscured the majestic view of Everest. Headlamps lit up the path as we trod through the darkness, crossing Gokyo Lake 3 and embarking on the seemingly vertical switchbacks that would take us to the summit.
Amidst our group, we had an unexpected companion - a small dog we affectionately named "Gokyo Dog." The ascent was challenging, a three-hour vertical climb that pushed our limits. But just when fatigue began to creep in, something magical happened.
The sun started to rise, casting its warm, golden glow over the peaks of Everest. We were granted the incredible privilege of witnessing a sunrise over the top of the world.
And then, it happened – we reached the summit of Gokyo Ri! After seven days of trekking, we had finally conquered this towering peak. The views that greeted us were nothing short of breathtaking, and the camaraderie among our group made the moment even more special. There couldn’t have been a better set of fellow adventurers to share this once-in-a-lifetime experience with.
The Descent and Our Circle of Kindness
As we began our descent, the reality of the morning hit us – we hadn’t had our much-needed cups of coffee yet! The trek down took half the time of our ascent, and the sun now bore down on us. Our cold-weather gear was quickly shed as we sweated our way down. At last, we reached our haven, had our caffeine fix, and indulged in a well-deserved breakfast.
But it wasn’t just food that nourished us on this morning. It was a circle of kindness that wrapped around us as we gathered in the dining hall. You see, today was Mary’s birthday, and in the spirit of the day, we went around the table sharing our gratitude and reflections on our journey. Smiles turned to tears of happiness as heartfelt words filled the room. Greg and a few of us lightened the mood with some comic relief, but truthfully, there couldn’t have been a better group of people to embark on this remarkable journey with.
Journey to Machhermo: Familiar Sights and the Company of Dzos
Our trek continued, leading us towards Machhermo. The sight of Gokyo Lakes 2 and 1 filled us with nostalgia, although some things seemed strangely unfamiliar despite our journey a few days prior. We even caught up with our trusty Dzos – the hybrid beasts of burden, part yak and part ox, who tirelessly carried our supplies from place to place. Eventually, we arrived at Tashi Dele Lodge, where we enjoyed a well-deserved lunch and indulged in a refreshing nap.
Dinner Celebration: A Sweet Surprise for Mary’s Birthday
Our evening unfolded as we gathered for tea and placed our dinner orders. Cards were played, laughter echoed, and reflections on the trip flowed. But as darkness settled in, a delightful surprise awaited. A cake, baked in Gokyo, emerged to celebrate Mary’s birthday.
We all savored a slice, and Mary generously shared with everyone, including the dedicated teahouse staff. As the night quieted down, trekkers retreated to their beds, knowing that the next day would bring a seven-hour trek, another step in our epic journey.
October 9, 2023
Machhermo to Namche Bazaar: The Epic Descent
Rising with the sun, we embarked on what promised to be a monumental journey - a seven-hour hike from Machhermo to Namche Bazaar. This hike was a formidable challenge, one that we had wisely split into two days during our ascent. As we set out, the anticipation hung in the air, mingling with our excitement.
Our hike was peppered with moments of wonder and camaraderie. For lunch, we perched atop a hill at a place aptly named "Hill Top." Our furry friends, a cat and some amiable dogs, joined us briefly.
Donna, in her candid fashion, expressed her hope for no more staircases - a wish we could all relate to. But as we left our lunch spot, we ventured straight into the enigmatic embrace of the clouds. The landscape stretched out before us, shrouded in mist, making the journey to Namche an ethereal experience.
The Arrival at Namche: Embracing the Mystique
When we finally arrived in Namche, our spirits soared. We had traversed a considerable dis- tance, and the sense of accomplishment was tangible. A well-deserved cup of tea rejuvenated us as we set our sights on planning for the evening. There was a mix of desires among our group - some eager to shop, others seeking relaxation, and a few adventurers yearning to explore for one last day.
But before our evening unfolded, Pemba graciously invited us into his prayer room. Inside, we were greeted by the sacred artifacts of his ancestors, carried over generations when they migrated from Tibet. It was a profoundly special moment, one that allowed us to glimpse the rich tapestry of culture and history that permeated this region.
Namche Dinner: Preparing for What Lies Ahead
Our day concluded with a hearty dinner, and we gathered around to discuss the plans for tomorrow. The schedule was set - a 7 AM breakfast followed by our journey to Lukla. There, we would await the verdict of the weather gods, hoping for clear skies on Thursday that would allow us to continue our adventure.
Oct 10, 2023
Lukla: Awaiting Clear Skies Amidst Uncertainty
Our day began with a twist of fate, as Pemba, our gracious host, delivered some disheartening news. Lukla had been shrouded in a three-day veil of fog, grounding all flights to and from this vital gateway to the Everest region. Anxiety hung in the air, but we chose to forge ahead with optimism, determined to face whatever challenges lay ahead.
"Carry Me Back" Bags: A Kilogram of Responsibility
Our trek took an unexpected yet meaningful turn when we encountered "Carry Me Back" bags. These simple bags held a profound responsibility - each one contained approximately one kilo- gram of trash collected from higher reaches of the trails. They were destined for Lukla, where they would be recycled and properly disposed of. It was a poignant reminder of our collective responsibility to preserve the pristine beauty of this extraordinary landscape.
The Warmth of Our Guide’s Home
On our journey to Lukla, Sonam, our unwavering guide, extended a warm invitation - into his own home. Located on the path to Lukla, his home became a welcoming sanctuary. Sonam’s family was busy preparing momo dumplings, a treat we were fortunate to savor. We gathered around for tea, and the gratitude we felt was immeasurable. Sonam’s children greeted us with smiles, and his son, Samir, led the way with infectious enthusiasm as we continued our trek to Lukla.
Arrival in Lukla: The Journey’s End and New Beginnings
Our arrival in Lukla marked the culmination of nine consecutive days of trekking. We had come full circle, returning to the place where our remarkable journey had begun. We celebrated this momentous occasion with a well-deserved cup of tea and settled in to rest.
As evening descended, we transformed the restaurant into a lively dance floor, raising our voices in song and laughter. The celebration was spirited, a reflection of the incredible bond we had formed over the course of our adventure. After all the revelry, we retired to our ac- commodations, hearts filled with hope that the clouds would part, allowing us to continue our journey home.
October 11, 2023
Lukla Chronicles: Waiting in Limbo with Bated Breath
Our day began with bright hopes and soaring spirits, only to be struck by a heavy blow - the dreaded news we had all feared: no flights were coming in. Panic subtly crept into our collective psyche as we grappled with the uncertainty that now loomed over our journey.
Waiting in Limbo: An Agonizing Pause
The hours stretched endlessly as we collectively grappled with the uncertainty of what lay ahead. Travel agents scurried to adjust flight plans, and a sense of restlessness hung heavy in the air. We took to the streets, indulging in some retail therapy, and engaged in games to distract ourselves from the mounting anxiety. But beneath the surface, we were all awaiting news of our next steps with bated breath.
The Helicopter Option: A Glimmer of Hope
A flicker of hope appeared on the horizon when the possibility of a helicopter evacuation emerged. As the mist slowly encroached upon Lukla, it seemed that a helicopter might be our lifeline. We steeled ourselves for the possibility, ready to pay the price for a chance at escape. But then, a sudden twist of fate - the call came in, and the helicopters were grounded, their flights to Lukla canceled.
The First Six: Departure Amidst Chaos
Amidst the chaos, a glimmer of good news emerged. A group of six had the opportunity to catch a helicopter - a sliver of hope in the prevailing uncertainty. They embarked on a treacherous journey to reach the helipad, an hour away on foot. Upon landing, their adventure continued with a grueling four-hour drive to the hotel, navigating the chaotic traffic of Nepal’s streets. Their urgency stemmed from international flights awaiting them later in the evening, propelling them into the heart of their departure.
The Next Three: Facing the Unknown
The rest of us waited, our collective fate hanging in the balance. Some among us were eager to take the helicopter down, yet logistics demanded that groups be combined to ensure efficient transport. And so, the next trio departed, their uncertainty echoing in our hearts.
Tom Rides Alone: A Brave Solo Departure
Tom, fearless and determined, faced the daunting journey alone. He joined a group of five French travelers in need of another rider. His departure was met with a tumble along the muddy trail, but resilience shone through as he met with the other three travelers, each step drawing us further away from Lukla.
The Waiting Game: In Hopeful Slumber
As we bade farewell to half our group, the rest of us waited. We wandered through the town, explored its nooks and crannies, and enjoyed an early dinner. But with the setting sun came an early slumber, fueled by the hope that flights would finally depart come morning. Our collective breath was held, for the culmination of our journey lay just beyond the misty horizon.
October 13, 2023
The Grand Finale: From Lukla to Kathmandu - The Journey's End
In Lukla, our stranded crew awoke to panicked knocks and the tireless efforts of our dedicated guides who had been working tirelessly to ensure our return. What was supposed to be a 7 AM wake-up call was disrupted by a 5:45 AM alarm, heralding the news we had longed for - flights were finally set to resume.
Airport-Mission Success: Cheers and Anxious Anticipation at Lukla
In a whirlwind, we hastily packed our bags while anxiously checking WhatsApp for updates on our fellow trekkers. Our arrival at Lukla Airport was met with the thunderous applause of excitement and the nail-biting tension of hope, as each of us yearned for a ticket out.
Amidst the usual airport chaos - tickets issued, bags checked, and passengers ready to board -- we stood, waiting and praying for the fog to relent. With each plane that landed, our anxiety mounted. Each boarding call was met with hopeful anticipation, and as we stepped onto that plane, relief and joy washed over us.
Finally out! The Bittersweet Journey Home
As we boarded the plane, the feeling was nothing short of exhilarating. We looked out of the window, knowing that we would soon be back home, reunited with loved ones. However, a sense of dread crept in as we contemplated the impending van ride.
5 or 6 Hours Cramped in a Van
Upon landing, the stark contrast between the lowlands’ heat and the high-altitude chill was palpable. The once-distant memory of the tiny Lukla airport now appeared in vivid reality. Ditching our trekking gear for shorts, we searched for a van.
An Unforgettable Van Ride: Laughter Amidst Motion Sickness
A van arrived, adorned with stickers and style, and we all scrambled to fit inside while some- one expertly loaded our bags onto the roof. Unfortunately, the seating arrangement was not thoughtfully planned, and a few of us battled car sickness during this winding journey.
Zip, Zap, Zoom! A Chaotic Descent
The journey was marked by the sound of animated horn noises, a symphony of beeps and beeps accompanying every hairpin turn. On these roads, being heard was equivalent to being seen. The mesmerizing views beyond our windows, though briefly glimpsed, were concealed by our mosh-pit-like proximity to fellow travelers.
Kathmandu: The Urban Contrast
As we arrived in bustling Kathmandu, the stark contrast between the city’s urban hustle and our tranquil trekking adventure hit us. For two weeks, we had roamed the mountains devoid of motorized vehicles, witnessing both cultural and climatic changes. The adventure was drawing to a close.
Trickle Down: Farewell to Fellow Adventurers
At our hotel, we reveled in the luxury of a long-awaited shower. Some of us began packing, while others bid their farewells. First, Steph embarked on her journey, followed by Stacey, leaving just six of us for a final dinner. In the early hours, three of our companions departed, leaving a trio of adventurers.
The Final Day: A Farewell to Remember
The last three of us gathered for dinner, and Jess prepared for her voyage to Japan. John and I, the last two standing, spent our morning reflecting, sharing stories, and embracing the profound insights gained on this remarkable journey. Then, I headed to the airport, leaving John behind.
Then There Was One: Alone Yet Inspired
John Graves was left alone, and a message came in over the chat, "…and then there was one, standing alone in the wake of our collective adventure. As I reflect on a year’s worth of preparation, the meticulous planning, numerous ZOOM calls, emails and texts of questions and concerns, I’m filled with mixed emotions—humbled by the magnitude of the undertaking and your trust in me, exhilarated by the success of the trip, and profoundly blessed by the friendships forged and the experiences that unfolded. The memories etched in my heart will forever remind me of our time together in… THIS IS NEPAL!!!!"
This Journey’s Legacy: An Adventure for the Ages
This adventure was born from a spark of an idea four years ago, an idea that overcame the obstacles of a pandemic to become a life-changing reality. We formed lifelong friendships, reveled in fun, and embarked on a journey that has opened a new chapter for MSSE. If you’re contemplating the trip of a lifetime, join us, and experience the world’s wonders.
Special Thanks: A Grateful Farewell
This is our final post for the Nepal blog, and we extend our heartfelt thanks to John and Holly for making it all happen. To MSU, for fostering a program that allowed this remarkable adventure to flourish. To Krishma and Peak Promotion, for orchestrating a seamless trek. To our guides, porters, and yak handlers - Sonam, Furi, Dasi, Ngwang, Gaglea, and Rinji - thank you for your unwavering support. To our fellow trekkers, the diverse crew that conquered every step of the journey - you are cherished.
And to Chat GPT: A Grateful Thanks
Before we sign off, we extend our gratitude to Chat GPT, my digital companion, for helping me craft these posts right from my phones.
A New Chapter Begins: Seek Adventure
As we bid Nepal farewell, we urge you to chase your own adventures, for this world is a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be uncovered. Until next time, safe travels! 😉✈
